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The weather had improved, although we heard that several towns nearby had been flooded during the night, it was a nice dry morning as we set off from Burnsall along the banks of the River Wharfe. 15 miles walking ahead of us to Buckden.

The walk follows the River pretty much all the way through Grassington and Kettlewell before heading off over the Limestone pavements near Conistone to Starbottom and finally into Buckden. The Limestone pavement and route through Grassington seemed to cause some confusion to a few people walking ahead of us, luckily we had checked with the Dales Way Association website and noticed that the path had been diverted in recent years so the old guide books weren't all that accurate.

Buckden is a very pretty little village from the outside but that day deep within lurked something particularly unpleasant, it was the Buck Inn and unfortunately we were staying there for the night. Omens not good when, I attempted to check in, and after standing at the bar for a good 5 minutes waiting for the manager to finish dealing with a sales rep his wife who had been standing behind him walked straight past me as though I was invisible and served someone who had just come in.

We were given our room which was on the small side of miniscule unpacked and headed down to the bar to investigate food and drink. By this time the landlords wife was sneering at the him behind his back and looked completely wasted, we bought a beer but as the food was ridiculously priced - over 20 for a plate of pasta we went into the village to see what else we could find. The owner of a nearby guest house sympathised with our dilemma advising us that the whole village avoided the place and that the corner shop/tea house now did evening meals, which it did so we booked a table for that evening. Back to the pub for a quick drink and the wife was now going around to all apologising for here bad attitude. The Village Tea Shop was a terrific find, partly due to the bad state of the Buck Inn the owners had started to open for evening meals, but booking is advisable as most of the guest houses send their guests here as well!

Good food and a few of the other customers were also doing the Dales Way, so before long it became very sociable, unfortunately the owners were no longer able to sell their home-made nettle beer due to health and safety rules, a shame as i was particularly looking forward to trying it.

Over dinner we met someone from the Dales Way Association who was doing a monitoring exercise on the route and had planned to meet a Bishop from the US that evening who was also walking part of the route because his diocese was twinned with one here. Bishop and his assistant duly arrived and many irreverant jokes later we left having enjoyed a wonderful meal and good conversation and headed back to the pub. Back at the Buck Inn and breakfast next day highlighted all the horrors of the place making us thankful that we had found alternative choice of dining the night before. Cold toast and beans and a rock hard poached egg seemed to be the best the chef could offer!



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